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Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts

Thursday, May 18, 2017

From Russia with Music!

Memoirs of a Geezer!

Reflections and Observations -- A Bright Passage from the Fantasies of Youth 
to Illuminations of Advanced Maturity!


This Episode:      From Russia with Music! 

(Introductory Note:    In the mist of Geezerhood, an ancestral reflection, with just a touch of conjecture...  chronicling an extraordinary life and legend!)

The year was, perhaps, 1880 or 1881. A young boy sang as he labored in the fields, toil demanded, of necessity, by his father, an impoverished and struggling farmer. The boy sang and hummed the few tunes he knew, given the brevity of his time on the earth, perhaps 10, at most 11 years of age.  He sang almost without pause, a kind of mantra, a meditation, his manner of coping with the rigors of an endless agrarian routine. Russian-Jewish folk songs, or hymns learned in the synagogue, songs inspired by the Torah, its various passages and teachings.  
Painting depicts Russian-Jewish
peasants...  A scene alive with activity
including a rabbi's passionate
exhortation.  Could that be young
 Samuel running to join his family!?

Each harvest day on the small, barely arable farm, the boy carried a sack into which he gathered the wheat his father scythed, or potatoes, onions and other root vegetables wrenched from a stubborn, reluctant soil.  Always the boy sang or hummed the songs in his limited repertoire.  One day, by pure chance, the shtetl's rabbi was passing and heard the boy singing. Stopping along his journey, the rabbi was transfixed, captivated, as if stumbling upon a rare coin or a gemstone, barely able to believe his senses.  

"Reb Gimpel," said Rabbi Nachum, calling to him, addressing the boy's father, "your child, he sings with such a remarkable voice.  I am most favorably impressed.  The boy has a true gift." Gimpel Rochov merely grunted in reply, apparently heedless of the rabbi's astonished words. "Your boy," the rabbi continued, "he could be a somebody in this world.  He could sing for a famous synagogue of which I know, near Kiev. Such a thing could bring money to your family."  

At this Gimpel Rochov stopped his labors, and stood facing the rabbi. "Money, you say, Honored Rabbi Nachum!"  The elder Rochov had eight children, four of each, sons and daughters. Too many gaping mouths demanding bread and vegetables, meat when it was available, a rare occurrence. "This money you speak of, how is it to be obtained?"

"I don't mean to be indelicate, Reb Gimpel, but you might wish to consider my taking the boy to Synagogue 'Rosha Choral Bolshaya.' There I could, in theory, meet with Rebbe Yakov Moishtovich, the chief and much revered rabbi leader of that fabled place! It is famous throughout Russia for its music, its singing. If things work out, The boy could then be...  well, how shall I put this...  fostered by the synagogue, in exchange for...  how shall I put this most delicately...  consideration! I believe the boy's talent could be nurtured. He might even be taught to play musical instruments. You are not a rich man, Reb Gimpel. I know you love your family, but one less mouth...  You understand? You and your wife could visit the boy on occasion, see how he's getting along."
Probably not the right synagogue...
but, who knows, it could be!...
"Kiev's a long way off, Rabbi," the elder Rochov said. "I shall discuss this with my wife, my Sofia. I mean... Asking a mother to give up a child. It's a big thing!"

"You'll make the right decision, of that I'm certain, Reb Gimpel. Explain to your dear Sofia the need... the boy's possible future, your own...  Meantime, I will have a discussion with Rebbe Yakov. As it happens, I am on my way even now to visit that sacred place. I'll tell him about your boy, the miracle of his gift. I can take the boy myself to the synagogue...  an interview, so to speak, a kind of audition...  I'm back in about a week. I'll come to see you then."

Another day passed. The boy, young Samuel Rochov, was given the news of his possible future. Gimpel and Sofia talked, argued. As head of the family, the father's decision prevailed. "What will become of our beloved child?" Sofia asked, her voice filled with worry and sadness.

"It's not forever, Sofia.  He'll come home for visits.  We can maybe journey to that place and see the boy. He'll make us proud. He'll be a somebody in this world! We'll be known as the parents of a famous cantor, perhaps. And, my dear wife, a bit of money will help a great deal. We have so little. Besides, the boy is slight, like a small twig, not a great deal of labor issues from the child..."
Moscow and Kiev are not that far
from one another.  Look!  A map!

"I don't like this," said Sofia. "I don't want my precious son taken from us. But, as you are the proclaimed 'tsar' of our household, your decision must prevail, and so I must bow to your wishes. I hope you know what you're asking of me, of our child. I worry we'll never see our sweet Samuel again! He doesn't want to leave us. He begs me not to send him away."  

In a short passage of time, Rabbi Nachum took Samuel to Synagogue Rosha Choral Bolshaya, and there the child remained for a decade or so. The boy was treated as chattel, an instrument into which music was fed then extracted, his extraordinary voice trained and cultivated. He was taught to play music as well. He learned flute and violin, having a natural gift for anything in the realm of music and song. There was no mother figure, only the stern Ryfka, who taught Samuel his lessons, and the rebbe, rabbinical students and the teachers of music. Days consisted of lessons, his training, meals, sleep, work and little else. Samuel never again saw his mother and father, his sisters and brothers. He never again returned to the shtetl and the home of his birth and childhood.

The synagogue and its musical traditions were famous throughout European Jewry. When he was 19 years old, then a highly trained musical prodigy, emerging as an established and important component of Rosha Bolshaya's choral ensemble and choir, Samuel accompanied the group on a lengthy tour of major European capitals. Eventually they arrived in Rome, having previously performed in Moscow, Prague, Warsaw, Budapest, Vienna and other great urban synagogues and concert centers.

Samuel had made a decision, one that became a bold plan. He was poised to break free from Rosha Choral Bolshaya and the harsh and impersonal treatment his difficult and tedious life had become as "property" of an endlessly demanding synagogue. While it's true Samuel's gift of music was greatly enhanced in that crucible, its spiritual leaders and teachers had also burned anger and resentment into his young mind, like adding tongue scorching, bitter spice to a boiling stew. He rose from his bed in a Roman hostel in the middle of a moonless night, crept from the room and escaped into an enormous, complex and completely unfamiliar urban landscape.

Finding with time and effort the Jewish quarter in the vast city, he presented himself as a homeless youth, seeking and then finding menial jobs in shops and markets. His fertile mind a hungry vessel of knowledge, Samuel quickly acquired the Italian language as he wandered throughout Rome when opportunities allowed. His dark, curly hair and swarthy complexion allowed him to assimilate.  As he worked in the shops and market stalls, he spoke with native Romans, learned, asked questions of patrons and people in the streets, his ear constantly tuned to accent, inflection, words and idiom. The people for whom he worked provided rude shelter, a place to sleep and bathe, food from their shops, farm carts and markets. He continued to grow and thrive.

A year passed quickly and Samuel's age increased to 20 years. Two remarkable events would change his life and propel him into a future of which he could never have dreamed or thought possible, both unexpected and quite by chance and good fortune. On a rare day in which he was free of shop or market duties and on his own, he walked the streets of Rome, exploring the city's rich history, attractions and landmarks. On this particular day, one that was bathed in warmth and sunshine, he emerged from a park to cross a busy street alive with pedestrian and carriage traffic.  As he dodged and wove his way through the chaos and tangle of people, horses, wheeled carts and buggies, he happened upon a jewelry store that bore the proprietor's name, Harry Raccoli.

Samuel regarded the sighting as a kind of kismet. He decided to adopt the name as his own, perceiving it as a natural "Italianization" of Rochov, and a perfectly effective and useful change of identity. Samuel formally and legally became Harry Raccoli in 1909 in a federal courtroom in Baltimore, Maryland, where both he and his future father-in-law would also become naturalized American citizens.  

The second remarkable event...  While walking the streets of Rome -- not merely a favorite diversion but having become routine as his familiarity with the city increased -- Samuel happened upon a musical competition. He joined the queue to wait his turn, planning to sing an Italian operatic aria he had learned during his sojourn in the country's capital city. The queue was serpentine, and long! And so too was the waiting time. As people do in such circumstances, he struck up a conversation with a woman and her son, the pair waiting just in front of Samuel.

"You are a singer?" the woman asked, as they chatted somewhat aimlessly, his extraordinary speaking voice a clue to his "instrument" of choice.  
"Yes," said Samuel. "I was classically trained," he embellished, having no desire to divulge his full story, his "escape" narrative.  
"Your accent is unusual," the woman noted. "What is your name, please."
He paused before answering, "I am called Harry Raccoli. My family lived in Russia for a long period of time," Samuel responded. "I'm afraid my accent betrays my Russian, how shall I say, my sojourn in the Russian metropole, at times, the countryside as well." The woman made no further inquiry into his history and background.
"Would you, perhaps, sing something for us, that is, for my son and me?"
"You mean," Samuel replied, somewhat taken aback, "right here, right now, standing here in this endless queue?" She nodded. He sang an aria from Donizetti's L'Elisir d'amore in his rich tenor (that in time would deepen to baritone) -- quite possibly Una furtiva lagrima! 

It may have been one of many he had already learned through, or perhaps the only piece that made its way into his musical mind and memory at the time. The woman and her son were astonished, mesmerized, as were many in that queue within earshot!

Able after a long moment to gather her thoughts and words, the woman said,"You are quite magnificent." Many others in the queue were equally affected by Samuel's voice, his talent, and quite stunned over this completely unexpected explosion of operatic singing. 

"I shall make you a bargain," the woman told Samuel, still wide-eyed with excitement and amazement. "I am a woman of some means.  If you should chance to win this competition, should we ever actually arrive at the head of this intolerable queue, I will, if you wish, become your patroness! If my son should win -- although I must confess," she added as a kind of aside, out of her son's hearing, "that your skill seems to eclipse anything, any voice I've ever heard. But if my son should win, I would still take you into my patronage and ask that you tutor my son in voice and music...  I trust you also play certain musical instruments?..." 

Samuel won the competition! The woman kept her bargain. The newly "self-named" Harry Raccoli remained in Rome for a few more years, studying, teaching, learning, with the patronage and unwavering encouragement of Sigorna Marchesi. And her son benefitted as well, in time earning a minor role with an Italian opera company.
Harry Raccoli, formerly Samuel
Rochov, circled.  He taught voice
at a Chicago conservatory of music
at one point in his career!

Ambition and a yearning for financial success eventually led Samuel to leave Rome and Signora Marchesi. She and her son had also provided useful tutoring for young Samuel. Among other skills, he learned to speak English, enabling him to correspond with certain American opera companies. The selfless signora made no objection, no insistence that Samuel remain with her in Rome. He was invited to the United States, to Maryland and the Baltimore Opera Company to audition. Samuel arrived at Ellis Island in the late 1890s, a letter from the opera company facilitating his admission into the United States. His talent won him a place with the company, and an introduction to Slava (Viachislav) Tucker, a Russian emigre, a patron of the opera and the father of Rebecca who would become Samuel's wife.   

Having then permanently adopted the name Harry Raccoli, he traveled to Germany (circa 1903) to study at the Royal Academy of Music in Berlin, returning to Baltimore with a newly acquired catalog of operatic knowledge and arias with which he entertained audiences for many years to follow. He and Rebecca moved to Chicago and then to Milwaukee, Wisconsin where Harry Raccoli and his family lived for most of the balance of his life.   He ultimately fathered four children, Arthur, Theodore, Genevieve (Helen) and Elizabeth. Harry won fame and widespread recognition as a singer and performer of opera, and later as a teacher of voice, violin and piano. Sadly, his career was cut short, his fortunes greatly diminished by the onset of Parkinson's Disease that claimed his life at age 73 following a long and debilitating illness. 

There's no clear evidence as to when, but Harry abandoned any practice of Judaism, probably when he was still quite young and as a by-product of his early life experiences. (Interestingly, his wife, my grandmother, Rebecca, also eventually left the practice of Jewish religious service. She flirted with various spiritual traditions, including Christian Science!) Harry Raccoli's legacy endures, and includes the many students he taught and mentored -- including one of his own sons -- most of whom made performing and teaching music their lifelong careers, sharing their knowledge and talents with successive generations. 

It is, I think, unfortunate that so many, perhaps most of us, learn little or nothing of our ancestors, our family heritage, and sometimes only when advanced age and wonder compel us to explore the lives and times of our antecedents. And then it's often too late to mine the resources of older, surviving relatives who may have little or no recollections, who may be victims of dementia or Alzheimer's, or are among the "dear departed." The dead among our ancestors can tell us little, unless they left accounts of their lives, careers and adventures via writing, journals, annotated photographs... Sadly, such records are rare in most families!

My own mother made 8mm movies of her world travels, thereby documenting at least that portion of her rich life. I believe my sister transferred those films onto DVDs, the existence or whereabouts of which are a mystery. Both women are no longer with us.  

There's little doubt my maternal grandfather's life became the stuff of an "oral tradition" or family history, his legend passed along through the generations, likely because his was such a remarkably colorful and interesting life, a kind of storybook journey from peasantry and poverty in Russia to great success and fame through his gift of music. Given the time in which he lived and worked, unfortunately there are no recordings of his singing or his instrumental performances, at least of which his surviving progeny are aware!

Next time, I'll return to less serious subject matter. But just so this episode is not entirely devoid of amusement and silliness, I've added a photo of myself as "makeshift bench," and Granddaughter, Phia, enabling her to climb a tree! (Half of Grandson, Seany, is at right!...  He's actually an entire person; the photographer was apparently engaged in a form of semi-artistic expression!)  Thank you!

Humbly Submitted, 05-19-17 -- Joel K.

                 



             







                     

                 

Wednesday, April 6, 2016

Traveling Then, Now... Coffee vs. Whiskey!

Memoirs of a Geezer!

Reflections and Observations -- A Bright Passage from the Fantasies of Youth 
to Illuminations of Advanced Maturity!


This Episode:      Traveling Then and Now...  Coffee vs. Whiskey!

Many people love to travel; to some it's a kind of religion.  I'm one of those who could travel almost constantly, if time and resources allowed.  I think there ought to be a travel channel and books specifically geared to the older traveler...  The Travel Geezer, for example, or A Geezer's Guide to a Sedentary Sort of Almost Adventurous Travel with Lots of Sitting Down...  something of that nature.  Wait a minute!  Mustn't forget television...    GLOBE SHUFFLER?

Just Imagine the Glories of this Thing
in the Middle of the Night!!?
In one's callow youth, mine, that is, I enjoyed traveling with my dear old friend, Patrick.  (At least I think so! Memory sometimes fogs a bit resulting from prodigious ingestion of spirits!)  On one occasion we took a road trip bound for California, commencing in Cheyenne, Wyoming, then ever onward and west bound. We were keen to visit the Grand Canyon along the way to the coast. Trouble was we liked to visit every saloon and tavern as we wandered westward.  In Williams, Arizona, for
Here's a view of at least one of the fabulous saloons in
Williams...  and, Oh Yeah, a postcard (at right).  I think
we actually purchased a postcard there...  possibly!



example, we couldn't resist the beckoning gin joints and the marvelous characters who practically therein resided!  "Big Biff" and "Gert the Guzzler" and "Cactus Smelly Rictus," to name a few.  Lots of cowboys, too, or so they claimed.  (I suppose ancient, filthy cowboy hats lent some credence to their alleged veracity!) 


We claimed to have seen the great gaping hole that is the Grand Canyon, although, owing to frequent patronage of saloons, we arrived at night.  The great gaping hole was a black hole. What a sight for two weary travelers who likely couldn't see straight in any case.  You shoulda seen the pictures we took!  (But you wouldn't have been able to see anything...  sort of like "artistic" shots inside coal bins or un-illuminated cave walls!)

We reached Las Vegas at night too.  Same impediments prevented an earlier arrival.  The casinos served us lots of drinks while we were losing lots of currency.  Such elegant travelers!... because we failed to engage our brains, we failed to engage a room.  We slept in the 
Arrived at Night; Slept in the Car;
Lost Lots of Folding Currency.  What
a Time we Had!!?
car, a compact.  Police woke us in the AM and accused us of vagrancy.  We opened our wallets, pockets too maybe, to reveal spare amounts of folding money and a couple of expired credit cards.  But, ever resourceful, we booked a cheap motel and spent another exciting night losing more money. What a time we had!  We made it to California, finally, on money borrowed and wired.     

Times change, sometimes for the better.  As age piled onto our bones and empty bourbon bottles remained un-replenished, travel adventures became a little less perilous, a bit less robust.  Sweetheart and I "travel" about five miles a day as we walk to one of several locations of our favorite coffee house.  I'm thinking someday I'd like to adopt a permanent persona as a "coffee house character," having some years ago replaced a fondness for beer and whiskey with a love of good coffee.

I begin to imagine my own brilliant pontifications as I listen to typical coffee cafe exchanges. They tend to go something like this:

"Hey Bumpy, how ya doin'?"
"How YOU doin' ?"
"I assed you foist.  How YOU doin'?"
"How YOU doin'?"
"You don't ass me how I'm doin' when I assed you foist.  Politeness, Bumpy!  You're s'posed to Follow a proper protocol, like....  aaah, the hell wid it.  I'm doin' OK.  Got a touch of the quinsy, I tink....  Udder den dat...  Oh, and pustules..."
"Doin' any travelin'?"
"Yeah, me an Lumpy drove over to, uh... whatchacallit last week.  Had a few beers, played some cribbage wid, uh, ya know, them chunky pals o' ours in the bib overalls....  We got lost on the way back.  Hadda ass a farmer where we was." 
"Sounds like a real nice, uh...  whatchacallit...  How's yer, uh...?  Whatsit...  yer nose still looks a little brownish, like maybe, like, it's phlebotomized..."  

Or...    maybe NOT a coffee house character!  

We get to a lot of coffee places these days.  We really like the stuff, and our habituation of "mud joints" is a kind of motivational "carrot" to keep us on our daily five-mile trek, maintain the discipline it requires.  Knowing that at the end, or nearing the end of the hike, we'll have our reward.  Our preferred coffee purveyor has two locations in Madison. We've been to both.  Now that's traveling, eh?!  In Chicago, one has to frequent a different establishment, like Intelligencia, not a bad substitute, though!  

And so we adapt to changing times and altered behaviors.  We still get to Florida, taking
advantage of a generous cousin and an inexpensive condo rental.  And, Door County...  Dubuque... Dickeyville...  Duluth... Clam Falls...  Footville...  Before I kick off the mortal coil, however, I'd like to get to Italy.  I want to sit around with pasta sauce dribbling from my chin and have a chat with wonderful old Italians, even though there'll be no real comprehension on either end of the dialogue!  I plan to bring a Berlitz Book or the Geezer's Guild to Italian and How to Eat Pasta without Looking Like a Dopey Tourist with Red Chin Whisker Stains!  (I tend to prefer red sauce!)

And yet, travel, any kind of travel, is a gift!  (That is, apart from being kicked down a flight of stairs!)  I enjoy looking at the public access pages of bookface where travel adventures of all types and sizes are posted.  Relatives who just went to bask in the warmth of the Dominican Republic and they didn't invite us!!...  for example.  Yes, my dears, I love travel.  Maybe one day Sweetheart and I will get to pack a sack and catch a Number 32 bus and re-visit the old west... you know, Wauwatosa!!  In the meantime...   "Sweetheart, where's my re-fillable coffee mug? I can't find...  Hey!  Where'd you put the lid?  What??!!  I lost the lid?!?..."

(Special Note of Gratitude and Dedication:  To, Pat, my wonderful friend of long standing, who's currently undergoing a difficult challenge, and he's doing so with courage and grace.  Hope to see you soon in person. Thought you might enjoy recalling one of our memorable travel adventures. Thank you for sharing with me some of the greatest travel experiences one can store in memory...  or maybe needs to forget!  In any event, I raise a cheer to you and memories of the "Grand Hook-a-Thons of our youth!"  And thanks to Joey, too, for her generous forbearance!  With love to Both!)  


Humbly Submitted, 04-06-16 -- Joel K.                



        

  
           


Friday, October 16, 2015

Parlez-Vous Footlockaire?... Hable en Escargot?... Come Again??!!...


Memoirs of a Geezer!

Reflections and Observations -- A Bright Passage from the Fantasies of Youth 
to Illuminations of Advanced Maturity!


This Episode:    Parlez-Vous Footlockaire?...   Hable en Escargot?...   Come Again??!!...


Ambling along the shores of Playa La Ropa, gentle waves tumbled onto bare feet.  A blazing sun dropped shards of heat on my beaded forehead as we moved slowly toward a garden of palapas and their beckoning shade!  Soon our fists were wrapped around cool, revitalizing drinks, the scent of fresh lime
Sand and palapas from Playa La
Ropa in Zihuatanejo, Mexico...
where brilliant linguists have
been known to congregate!
wafting up in a tiny effervescent storm.


"De donde eres?  Y donde vive?" she asked.   She was one of two young women we met under the palapas.  She spoke in rapid Mexican-Spanish; I had trouble receiving the question and plugging it into my mental "Spanish to English" dictionary.  

"Miercoles," I answered with little hesitation.  The two young women laughed merrily.  "You told me, "Wed-nes-day," she said, pronouncing each syllable.  I babbled and blushed and then asked her to repeat the question, "mas despacio, por favor."  We all laughed.  "I'm not from, nor do I live in "Wednesday," I admitted. We exchanged names.  "Yo quiero aprender mas espanol," I said.  "Tratamos de hablar solo en espanol cuando estamos aqui, en Mexico!" (We want to learn more Spanish.  We try to speak only in Spanish when we're here in Mexico!)  Sweetheart -- she's my wife! -- understands spoken Spanish far better than I, but I've been able to speak the language with greater ease.  We're a good team.

Our new-found friends said with ardent enthusiasm, "And we want to learn more English!!  We teach one another!  Yes!  Podemos ensenar cada otro...  maestros!"  And so we did.  We spent a delightful afternoon teaching and learning from one another!

In my geezerhood, I like to think I've picked up, over time, a fair amount of words and phrases in other languages, through travel...  (maybe I'm delusional!)              

See...  here's the thing.  Travel is a marvelous gift, a privilege and a remarkable teacher.  Whenever we travel to other countries, we find the overall experience much richer, far more fulfilling and gratifying when we make an effort to learn and use the host country's language.  In the process, however, we do tend to generate humor, and laughter too, among "el gente" (the people) with whom we converse, or try to converse. 

I love languages; I enjoy trying to learn them, even if just a few basic words and phrases.  But our best efforts don't always serve us as well as we'd like.  Sweetheart and I honeymooned in Greece.  It was a few years ago (well, actually, many years is closer to the truth!).  I tend to suffer from heartburn (now
more than in my callow youth!).  They have what we call "sidewalk emporiums" in Athens, stocked with all manner of sundries, the one at which we stopped staffed by an attractive young woman.  I figured they must have something for stomach complaints.  I looked carefully through my Handy Book of Greek Words & Phrases.  I could find no word for "heartburn," nor "antacid."  Finally, with my stomach on fire from lemon rice soup, peppers, dolmades and other Greek delicacies, I found what I thought were appropriate words to describe my malady, placed my hand over my heart and said in my finest baritone,  Πυρκαγιά καρδιών.  

Sweetheart looked concerned.  "What did you say to her?"  I told her what I said!  "Heart fire!" she exclaimed incredulously.  You said 'heart fire'?!  Are you nuts?  Did you see the look on her face...  shock, fear?  She probably thinks you're some kind of lunatic masher.  Let's get out of here before the police arrive."  

"But I looked it up!  Don't you think she understood what I wanted?  Can't be that big a stretch from 'heartburn' to 'heart fire'...  can it?"

"C'mon," she said, insistently, muttering "heart fire!" and "silly lunatic!" as we walked briskly to avoid the apparent arrival of Greek "masher police."  The next evening, while on an "Athens By Night" tour, we told the story to several companions, with several different translations circulating, given the international flavor of the gathering.  Laughter ignited, in their turns, like spontaneous bonfires among the various ethnic groups.  Eventually someone came up to me and said, "hier bitte."  I looked at my open palm and found three antacid tablets, donated by a sympathetic and, no doubt, kindred soul, a fellow sufferer from...  who knows?  maybe Germany, Holland, Austria...?

I've acquired a bit of Russian, too.  My grandparents came from Russia.  I have a few useful and even some off-color words and phrases.  On one occasion in my distant past, having had too much vodka, we were in a Serbian restaurant (where many of the patrons spoke Russian!).  From my limited arsenal, I rattled off a string of short sentences to a nice Russian fellow.  A number of my more familiar phrases.  Accidentally, but stupidly, I inserted a filthy suggestion.  The man hurled a plate of baba ganoush at my head.  I ducked, cleaned up the shattered mess and then issued profuse apologies.  I bought the man a couple of drinks.  We became jolly good chums...  in Russian:  друзьями!
The Bridge Leading into Lalinde!

Not that  many years ago, firmly established in what I'd term my "early geezerhood," sort of the "teen geezer" years, my wife and I were in France.  The airline had lost our luggage, forcing us to spend the better part of a day shopping for basic necessities in Paris department stores.  We had to find and purchase underwear, for example, of an all-cotton variety, navigating entirely in French.  At one point, seeking another type of garment, I asked a sales woman, "Avez-vous un costume pour le plage?"  She looked at me a long moment, and then said in beautifully accented English, "You know, you needn't say 'beach costume.'  We do have a word for 'bathing suit.' "  I smiled sweetly, babbled several "merci's" and followed her to a rack of bathing costumes...  er, that is, swim suits.
We were treated beautifully by the French.  

In Lalinde, for example, I asked a woman where I might find a pizza restaurant, wanting cuisine to please our grandson.  The woman actually came out of her book shop and guided me for two or three blocks to the town's finest pizza establishment, all because I asked her in her own language!  Sweetheart drew a warm hug and
A Street Scene in Tremolat!
exclamations of praise and joy from an older woman in Tremolat (on the Dordogne, the "Smile of France"), because she, my wife, had asked the woman, in French, where the town library was located!  Wonderful moments!  Magical!  


We visited Estonia where our daughter was serving in the Peace Corps.  She mastered and continues to speak it fluently when corresponding with Estonian friends.  There, too, we were treated with great
Beautiful Tallinn in Summer!  (We were there in February!)
kindness and deference whenever we made the effort to speak the language.  Always the same!  Delightful times, magical experiences... when the host country language became a key player in the plot!


In part I credit my early education.  Jesuit Father Rudolph bellowed superbly in Latin.  I endured four years of it in high school.  Russian in the military, and in my college years as well.  Today, my love of languages continues.  I try to learn new words and phrases -- Spanish, French, Turkish (I spent wonderful times in Turkey during my military years!), Italian, Hebrew, Polish, Chinese...
Uvas!  Muy Deliciosos!

Not quite sure why, but I find it fun to use ridiculous phrases and complete sentences taken out of context.  I've had satisfying reactions from native speakers when I've announced in my finest Russian, "Sir, I don't want to go to the barber shop."  In Mexico, when it rains I like to say to anyone within hearing range, "Es buena para las uvas."  (It's good for the grapes!...  especially amusing where they grow no grapes!)     

Language as "ice breaker..."  It knocks down barriers, allows the traveller to make friends of host country strangers, often rather quickly, acquiring invitations to visit schools, homes, too, even meet entire families, a welcome byproduct.

Next stop?  Hmmm...  maybe the Amalfi Coast (if only in my fantasies), described as a treasure among the world's finest culinary landscapes.  Pasta, fresh fish, anchovy pesto, pasticciotti, delizia al limone...!!  Wonder if there's a Pocket Guide to Spoken Italian on my bookshelf?!  HONEY!!!... 


Humbly Submitted 10-16-15 -- Joel K.